So, two broken mirrors, I bought a new one, but couldn’t bring myself to throw away the broken ones.
“Surely I can fix them?” I thought.
Super Glue – fail
Heat, melt the plastic etc – fail
Both fixes lasted 50 miles or so.
Hmm…. “How do I fix this?”
I needed to put more effort in, so here’s the kit I used:
- a drill and some bits (wood will do)
- screw driver
- pliers / something to hold the mirror
- a screw
Drill both sides with a small drill bit. Here’s the ball part (think ball and socket joint):
Looking from the other side:
Next I need a bigger hole half way through the ball side otherwise this screw wasn’t going in:
I chose a full threaded wood / chip board screw with a round / sunk head, otherwise it wouldn’t fit back in the socket.
Screw into ball and see what we have left, not much:
Trim some off, better:
The neck around the socket might get in the way now, shave it with a sharp knife.
Screw the ball to the mirror:
Then assemble, done, leave new one in the box Tim
For this I needed a new crank puller (a.k.a. extractor, Park Tool CCP-22):
And a new crankset (unbranded):
The crankset was recommended as the current replacement by SJS. Replacing the chainrings with the single chainring I already had on the old crankset.
The crank puller seems OK, though I don’t rate it above my last one, maybe equal to it. Anyway it worked twice which is all I needed. Important is to always remember to grease both threads and the tip of it, since the tip will be grinding against metal.
Here’s one side done, baby started crying that was all I managed that evening:
It’s also worth noting that I grease the bottom bracket axle before putting the new crank on, grease the crank bolt and give it a good tighten if you want it to remain in place. Greasing the axle is meant to decrease the corrosion that can happen between the steel axle and the alloy crank. Similarly greasing pedal threads is a must, which i forgot last time, hence the beginning of the problems I had. There are those that disagree which bits to grease, I sometimes change my mind, but I’ve had more problems by not greasing than by greasing.
After removing the RHS crank I need to swap the chainrings from new to old:
He’s the finished result:
The hawk eyed reader will note that my chainring is not reversible and is getting on in age (miles), when the teeth are like razor blades I’ll swap it, a derailleur setup would need this replacing already, my chain is 1% worn according to my chain wear indicator, I’ll replace that at nearer 2% probably, again derailleur owners would need to replace now.
The finished RHS:
While I was shopping for the above I also bought a saddle, Maddison Prime:
Here’s it fitted, note the road profile of it and the fancy ruler for elite setup:
I just stick it in the middle, angle the nose up a tiny fraction and that’s fine. Maybe I’ll fiddle with it in future, but I tend not to notice much difference. It’s definitely harder than my last saddle, but doesn’t seem to bother me yet as my cycling distances are tiny now I work closer to home and have a baby that takes up my cycling time.
That was that for that night, the next evening I did an oil change and tightened my mudguard bolts (Surrey roads rattle them loose). Next morning I’m all set for commuting again:
What a lovely steel machine she is.
Posted in Cycling
Tagged Axle, Bluebell, BottomBracket, Cateye, Chainring, Commuting, CrankPull, Crankset, Dynamo, Grease, Lights, Maddison, Mirror, Ortlieb, ParkTool, Pedal, Prime, Raven, Saddle, SportTour, Thorn
Posted in Cycling
Tagged Bluebell, Cateye, ClaudButler, Commuting, Ergon, Evans, Grips, Mirror, Nexus, Rims, Rohloff, SJSCycles, Spokes, WheelBuild, Wheels